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on January 20th, 2012•
Today our adventure was to officially begin by driving to the village of Dakdin and interviewing the people who live there. Our adventure began alright…but we never got to Dakdin.
The Market in Dakdin City. Yes, that's a rat for sale.
The village of Dakdin means “Water in the Forest” (Dak means water and Din means forest) and in this area there are a lot of villages starting with “Dak.” This is, technically, the dry season here in Laos. Technically. So, even though it was primarily sunny today, the rain still came down in droves while we were at a market to grab some lunch supplies in Dakdin City (not to be confused with the village we came to visit which is simply Dakdin – I know it’s confusing, but just think of how many “Peachtree” addresses are in Georgia). I’m told one good cloudburst per day is very normal during this time of year…but what I wasn’t told was how the result of the rain from the rainy season plus the daily cloudbursts of the dry season can add up to some very muddy road conditions in the mountains.
I now have two classifications of mud – there’s regular mud, and there’s Laotian mud. Laotian mud is red and soft and basically like a very soft clay – think watery red oatmeal but smooth. This kind of clay mixed with a lot of water means very slippery roads. I was told before leaving on this trip that Dakdin is very remote and sometimes you have to actually hike into the village a kilometer or two when the roads get bad. No problem, I brought my hiking boots and was prepared to hike if necessary. I was not expecting what happened.
The hill and mud that defeated us
After the cloudburst in Dakdin City we continued on our way hoping to arrive in Dakdin by midafternoon. But then the mud had its way with our truck. Our driver is a phenomenal artist when it comes to manipulating the truck through very muddy conditions – I was amazed we hadn’t gotten stuck before we actually did – but we did get stuck. The hill was too steep, the mud was too slick, and the ruts were just too deep to navigate. Three hours later we admitted defeat – the mud won. We weren’t going anywhere. It was also now getting late afternoon and we were still 20 kilometers from Dakdin so hiking in was not an option. I was needing my Gumby.
The truck was eventually freed from the mud by going backwards down the hill (thank you gravity) so we got back in the truck and headed back to Dakdin City. There is supposedly a Guest House in Dakdin City but we all doubted whether they could handle 10 guests on the spur of the moment. We were right. What were we going to do? The answer came from the Communist.
I have to explain the Communist. As I wrote about earlier, Laos is a Communist country and we were being monitored here on our visit. In fact, while in Dakdin City we picked up a government official who was going to accompany us to Dakdin and listen while we conducted our interviews. I was told I could ask any question in the interviews, just not any political questions – and I was fine with that because our purpose is humanitarian not political. It was our Communist friend who found the answer to our quandary of where we were going to stay. I’m still not certain of the connection, but the home of a Communist Party official was located that would take us in. Our two truck caravan drove over, unloaded our gear, and settled in.
Dinner in the home of a Communist
Every now and then I get to experience something where I say to myself “I can’t believe I’m getting to do this!” and this is one of those nights. We have all set up our camping gear in one communal room and this is our home for the night. For dinner they cooked us a traditional Laotian dinner with eggs, rice and vegetables and we sat around on the floor eating. I can’t understand a word being spoken but yet I feel surprisingly at peace in this place. God provided a dry place to stay…thanks to the hospitality of a Communist.
My Gumby reminder to be flexible is working…but it’s starting to rain again.
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on January 19th, 2012•
Typically when you travel in a developing country things never go quite as planned. I learned this lesson years ago and so to help me cope with my “Type A” personality I was once given a Gumby before a trip to Africa – the reminder was to always be flexible. I needed Gumby yesterday.
The plan was to fly into Laos from Bangkok and then drive up to the village of Dakdin – which is the village we’re going to highlight in our campaign with World Concern. Other than getting stuck in the last row of a small airplane and having no legroom (and I mean zero) leg room, we got to Pakse, Laos right on time. And then…we waited. Our pick-up driver had the wrong information about our arrival time and so we sat the airport and waited an extra three hours to begin our journey. By the time we actually got on the road there was no way we were going to make it to the village so we ended up staying the night in a guest house where I write this now. So, with the extra time yesterday I did a lot of thinking and praying and so here are some random thoughts of the trip so far.
Random Thought #1
It’s become harder and harder to escape America. From the Starbucks at the Bangkok airport (and Dunkin Donuts, and McDonalds, and Burger King, and 7 Eleven, etc…) to the music played on the radio in the cab, the biggest export of the United States is our culture…and I’m not certain that’s a great thing. Still processing that one.
Random Thought #2
Technology still amazes me. On a short layover in Cambodia we had to change planes and inside the terminal in Cambodia they had free wi-fi. So I logged in on my iPhone and checked e-mail, and Facebook, and uploaded pictures, and within minutes of doing that I had some comments on the pictures from friends in the States. Crazy. Little hand held devices connect me to the world in real time. Again…I’m not certain that’s a great thing. Still processing that one…but thankful for the ability for sure.
Random Thought #3
Sleep is a good thing. The trip to Thailand was 18 hours in the air followed by 3 hours of “sleep” at a hotel followed by a trip back to the airport to get to Laos. I figured it out that in the span of 48 hours of my life I had been awake approximately 42 of them. Is it any wonder that I was having a real hard time staying awake one the ride from the airport yesterday? Thankfully I got a solid 7 hours last night and am feeling much better.
Random Thought #4
I simply cannot fathom the depravity of a person who will fly to SE Asia for the sole purpose of having sex with an underage person. They are called “Sex Tourists” and they are real. Checking into our Guest House we were reminded of it by the sign posted in our rooms. Lord, I’m not a violent man but please protect me from what I might do if I ever see a “Sex Tourist” on the prowl.
Random Thought #5
Laos is beautiful. I know it may sound strange, but as we sat there at the airport outside waiting the three hours for our ride it reminded me of Hawaii. The palm trees, the humidity, the mountains and the smell. It’s very different from Africa…less dusty…less hectic. Driving on the roads I was thankful people actually obeyed traffic laws and seemed rather civil. But above all else, the people are kind, polite and gentle and very quick to smile. And it is becoming very soothing to be greeted by Laotians with two hands folded in front like a prayer and a gentle nod.
Random Thought #6
When we did get to the World Concern offices yesterday we got a short briefing on the challenges that face the village of Dakdin. It is located high in the hills and a healthy water source is very difficult to find. In fact, the government has actually floated up the idea of relocating the entire village closer to a water source. I have no idea how they would do that, but just to even consider that option not only means healthy water is a significant issue in Dakdin, but the importance of clean water can never be underestimated. Of course, associated with the water issue are health and sanitary concerns. Food security is the second biggest need as rice farming has some problems in the area. There is hope that coffee can be developed as a crop to add economic stability to the village. The third most significant issue is education. A Typhoon back in 2009 wiped out the school building and the school building built to replace it is very small. The fact that two neighboring villages also send their children to the school means overcrowding is significant. But, that’s what we’re here to do: scout out the issues and hope that radio listeners can come alongside the people of Dakdin and help it transform.
So, today the plan is to go get the proper permits to travel into the community (Laos is a communist country so every visitor is monitored closely) and then we should arrive in Dakdin by 2:30 this afternoon. That’s the plan…but I have my Gumby in my pocket just in case.
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on January 15th, 2012•
The first blog entry on a trip is never easy. Primarily it’s difficult because I have yet to really experience anything meaningful and so the challenge is to write something…well, meaningful. Yes, this is the first time I’ve visited Laos, or really anywhere in SE Asia. Our flight is routing through Tokyo, Japan and Bangkok, Thailand and I’ve never been to either of those cities/countries before either. It’s always fun going someplace new…but meaningful? Sorry, it’s hard to be meaningful when all I’ll see is the inside of an airport. But while waiting to board my flight in Seattle I had a rather unexpected start, and I’ve been thinking about it and praying about it ever since we took off.
Standing in line to board the plane I hear a woman’s voice say “David?” Now, I’m traveling alone before I meet up with World Concern staff in Bangkok so it was a bit surprising to look and see a familiar face boarding the same plane. Jocelyn and I are in the same line of work. She works with Compassion International and it’s her job to work with radio stations in the US trying to motivate listeners to become child sponsors and supporters. Well, that’s exactly what I do…but not for Compassion. She is also going to Bangkok to gather information about the ministry so she can share those stories back in the US on the radio. When I saw her I had this split second (and it was probably even a split second of a split second) bit of competitive uneasiness. You see, because we work in the same circles and know so many of the same people we run into each other a decent amount of time at conferences, in fact I even traveled with her to Nicaragua on a Compassion trip back in 2008. She’s a delightful, godly woman who believes very passionately about the work. But, truth be told and in complete honesty, there are only so many radio stations to work with so some might consider us “competitors.” And therein lies the rub. Is she?
My primary “centering” passage of scripture is Matthew 6:33 where Jesus gives what I think is the most difficult command in scripture: “Seek the Kingdom of God above all else, and live righteously, and he will give you everything you need.” (NLT) Several years ago that passage hit me like a cold slap in the face because I realized that if we actually do that, it changes everything! Gone is my ego. Gone is my pride. Gone is my competitive nature. Gone is my right to myself. Gone is everything that is not seeking God’s Kingdom and desires first. Do you realize how difficult that is?! Living out that scripture impacts everything, from the way I parent, to the way I love my wife, to the way I treat total strangers, to the way I respond to the person who cuts me off in traffic. Everything. That’s why I call it my “centering passage” because it forces me back to the real calling on my life – seeking God above all else.
So, back to Jocelyn. Compassion International is doing some amazing work in “releasing kids from poverty in Jesus name” as their mission statement says. That’s not competition…that’s a mutual goal!! Poverty steals the type of abundant life Jesus speaks about in John 10:10, and there have got to be thousands of non-profit organizations and ministries working toward that same end. That’s seeking the Kingdom of God above all else. Why did that ever so slight bit of competitiveness slip into my thoughts back in Seattle? I don’t know…but as I write this seven hours into my trip and 32,000 feet over the Pacific Ocean I have been thinking about that split second.
Lord, I have no idea what You have in store for me on this trip. I have no idea who I will meet and who I will talk to and what You will show me, but, please, keep me centered on your Kingdom. Thank You for the reminder of things so much bigger than myself and my agenda.
Amen.
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on August 10th, 2011•
On three separate occasions while in South Sudan we went out to eat in local restaurants. Now normally when you walk into a restaurant you make an assumption – the assumption that the restaurant has food. But every time we walked into these restaurants, before we sat down, our World Concern host asked the waitress “Do you have food?” Even the need to ask that question shows that there are occasions when the answer is “no.” Hunger is real. Food security is not just a phrase thrown around by Humanitarian organizations like World Concern, it is significant issue, one that I will no longer take for granted the next time I walk into a restaurant.
And there are other questions I don’t normally ask in America, but I have asked each of these questions on this trip:
- What kind of a toilet is it? In developing countries, if they have toilets, they are typically squat toilets. These are not normal to me, and I can honestly say I would be a happy man if I never had to use one of these types of toilets again.
- Do I have my toilet paper? This is pretty self-explanatory, but I wish it wasn’t.
- Does the room have a mosquito net?
- Did I pack enough hand sanitizer?
- Did I take my Malarone today? See: mosquitos/malaria.
- How many clean shirts do I have left? (Now I have to admit that I have asked this question at home, but not because I had NO clean shirts, just maybe not the shirt(s) I wanted to wear.)
- Are those men with guns in the back of that truck the military or should I be concerned?
- What time does my UN flight leave?
- How do you say “Thank you” in Dinka?
- Is this the meadow where they did the food drop?
- What time does the electricity get turned on/off?
- Is the internet down because you’re using the copier?
- How many days since that child had a meal?
I don’t believe that followers of Jesus are called to be comfortable, and those are not comfortable questions. All these questions are why, I admit, I like coming to Africa – they jolt me out of my normal, comfortable life.
Random Thought #1: I know nothing of sacrifice
Remember how in my last blog post I mentioned how much I am missing my family after two weeks on Africa? Although that is VERY true, I am a whiner. Why? Because I met two members of the World Concern staff: Harun and Moses. Harun is married with two children and he not only works in World Concern’s Wau office, he lives there in one room next to the offices…by himself. His family? They are back in Nairobi where he is from and he hasn’t been back to see them for months. Sure, they call and even Skype, but they are a family divided because Harun feels called to the work in South Sudan. Now that is sacrifice – for both him and his family. For the last year has followed God’s calling on his life to work and live in Lietenhom, South Sudan as a Vocational Trainer with World Concern. He spends his days teaching auto mechanics to South Sudanese men and even one woman. He works under a huge fig tree and lives in one of the traditional homes of mud walls and a straw roof. Did I tell you that Moses got married just two years ago? His wife lives in Nairobi and they haven’t seen each other in months. Moses will be with me on the flight to Nairobi today and he will be met by his wife at the airport. I hope I get to see them kiss. They will have a three week furlough together and then Moses will come back again to Lietnhom in early September and stay in his hut and teach his students until his next break in December. These are Godly men who live out their faith every day. Me? I know nothing of sacrifice compared to these men.
Random Thought #2: Coke is it
No matter where I go in South Sudan I can probably buy a Coke…and even, occasionally, a Coke Light. This isn’t unique. With over a dozen trips to Africa under my belt, plus numerous trips to Haiti and Central America, I can honestly say that Coke can be bought in any place I have ever been. I’m jealous of Coke’s marketing penetration all over the world. I wish I was smart enough to help market World Concern like that.
Random Thought #3: Blessings out of no where
So our plans got a bit changed at the end of this trip and I realized that I had two free days in Nairobi before heading home. “Hmmmm,” I thought, “I wonder if I can get a flight up to Ethiopia and visit Lidya and Tsion in the orphanage.” Prayer, prayer and more prayer – and a lot of e-mails – and I got word that it was possible!! I booked a flight and a Guest House and so I’m off to Ethiopia for a quick trip and a chance to hug my daughters now that they know I’m their dad. I’m getting choked up already. I’m gonna be a basket case tomorrow when I see them again. Blessed? Words fall short to express how overwhelmed I feel right.
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on August 9th, 2011•
In Lietnhom, South Sudan the primary religion is what they call “traditional” religion. Basically, it’s a kind of worship of spirits and ancestors and, basically, anything they choose to worship. The heads of this religion are called “Spear Masters,” basically witch doctors. Today I met one. It was fascinating.
The influence and effect of the Spear Master cannot be underestimated in these communities. (see my previous blog post about Peter). They are the ones who control when the river can be fished, they are the ones who preside over medical situations, and they are the ones (when paid) who offer the animal sacrifices to appease the gods. Your child gets sick? Pay the Spear Master some money for his influence and if the child lives he is a miracle worker, if the child dies then you must not have paid him enough money. Fear is what gives the Spear Master his power.
So yesterday we went to a Spear Master’s shrine and my colleague Derek interviewed him. When asked what his hope was for the community of Lietnhom the Spear Master replied, “I want the community to prosper, because if it prospers then I make more money.” What a contrast to the words of Jesus who said “Whoever wants to be a leader among you must be your servant, and whoever wants to be first among you must become your slave. For even the Son of Man came not to be served but to serve others and to give his life as a ransom for many.” Matthew 20:26-28.
There are spiritual forces at work oppressing those who live in such extreme poverty. We must recognize and fight that battle at the same time we fight the humanitarian battle. As I stood looking at that Shrine of animal sacrifices I couldn’t help but smile remembering the story of Elijah confronting the prophets of Baal in I Kings 18. So I stood there away from the rest of the group and I prayed a prayer similar to Elijah’s: “O Lord, God of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, prove today that you are the God of Israel and that I am your servant. Prove that I have done all this at your command. O Lord, answer me! Answer me so these people will know that you, O Lord, are God and that you have brought them back to yourself.” I wish I could say that God responded to my much less articulate prayer like He did to Elijah (He didn’t) but at the same time I have to believe that my prayers have been added to many others and very soon that stronghold will erode as God answers our prayers.
And the good news is that it’s already happening. At the church service on Sunday a man was introduced who was a former Spear Master. Someone from the church had presented the Gospel to him and he accepted that message and the grace of Jesus Christ. Little by little, person by person, one cured child at a time, the people of Lietnhom are seeing God’s love in action. Because even though witch doctors are real, so is Jesus, and I know who wins that battle.
Random Thought #1: I miss my family.
Every morning when I wake up under my mosquito net, and especially because it’s still typically dark outside because we have no electricity, I have the chance to do a lot of thinking and praying in the dark. In these solitary moments I give myself time to process my life a bit. The internal tug-of-war between the calling on my life to be husband/father and the other calling I feel to do the work I do can be hard to reconcile on long trips like this. How can I be a good husband/father if I’m not even in the same country with my wife and kids?! It is no honor to have so many frequent flyer miles. But I also know I travel to places like South Sudan because I am also called to do the work I do. I think that’ll be one of my first questions in heaven: God, did I have the proper balance between those two? I really love (and miss) my family. It can literally, some mornings, be a physical ache.
Random Thought #2: Technology amazes me
Last night I did got the chance to talk to my wife via a satellite phone. Did I mention that I miss her terribly? But just the fact that I can talk, in real time, through my small hand-held device to her small hand-held device makes me marvel at how technology works. I can sit in a Guest House in a very remote corner of South Sudan and e-mail, blog, and check my Facebook status…it’s absolutely awe-inspiring. Humans indeed are fearfully and wonderfully made if we can dream up this stuff and then make it happen. The world has certainly become smaller, and this technology has made it abundantly clear that in today’s world we are all global citizens…no matter what your passport says.
Random Thought #3: Gumby lives!
On my first trip to Africa back in 1995 each member of our group was given a small Gumby figurine to illustrate the need on any trip to Africa to “be flexible”. The Gumby mascot has stuck with me now on every trip and today is no different. Our plans to go see a food distribution have been cancelled because…there is no food to distribute. This is ironic and sad at the same time.
Random Thought #4: I Like Ethiopian food
We got back into Wau yesterday and in honor of my family’s adoption we went to an authentic Ethiopian restaurant in the town. Man, it was delicious…and very authentic, right down to the incense. Plus, we had the added bonus of seeing a woman smoking from a major bong in the corner. It was a wow moment in Wau.
